Restaurants and cafés in Bohemian Switzerland with the best views

Naturally, the main reason for visiting Bohemian Switzerland is the views. The local landscape, set around the Elbe Valley and straddling the boundary between two regions shaped by intense volcanic activity, is ideal for this. It is dramatic; the only flat terrain you’ll find here is along the banks of the Elbe, on the summit of a table mountain, or in your dreams, so almost every trip actually culminates in some stunning view.

That’s why we thought we’d combine tried-and-tested dining recommendations with places where you’ll also be surrounded by beauty. After all, food doesn’t just appeal to the senses of taste and smell; it can also be a powerful visual experience.

Let’s start with a spot where a truly breathtaking view of the countryside opens up before you. The Mezná Resort lies just below the summit known as Na Kopečku, so it stands to reason that it is situated on high ground. Just a short distance below, however, flows the River Kamenice, which has carved a deep channel through the landscape (with its famous gorges), so the terrain here slopes steeply down into the valley, revealing views of the opposite ridges around Růžová, Janovský Hill, as well as the attractive parts of Saxon Switzerland with the table mountains of Zirkelstein and Kaiserkrone. It’s not that you can see them all as clearly as the palm of your hand from the restaurant’s terrace, but the very proximity of these remarkable formations lends the horizon a special charm, and the sunsets here are simply to die for!
As well as the view over the valley, many of you will also enjoy the view of the children’s playground with its unusual wooden features, where you can safely and comfortably let the little ones play whilst keeping an eye on them whilst you eat and relax. Mezná is also a brilliant starting point for the most beautiful walks through Bohemian Switzerland. You could, for example, try the circular route from Mezná to the Fénix viewpoint, Tři Prameny, Pravčická brána and Mezní Louka.

Having already mentioned the partly volcanic origin of the local landscape, we must direct your attention to Tolštejn, situated just below the summit of the phonolite hill Jedlová. This medieval castle, once ruled by famous families from Czech history and first mentioned in the 14th century, was burnt down during the Thirty Years’ War and was never successfully rebuilt. However, in the 19th century, a Swiss-style restaurant was established amongst its ruins, and you can visit its restored and modernised version today. At the Tolštejn Castle Restaurant, you will not only enjoy a superb meal and take in the magnificent views, but you can also stay overnight.
The view from the Tolštejn ruins over a landscape once shaped by giant tectonic faults and magma welling up from the depths of the earth will captivate you in every season, and even in winter, when – if there is enough snow – you can reach the site on cross-country skis or snowshoes.

But beautiful views aren’t limited to lookouts and high vantage points. When you stay at the Hotel Bellevue in Jetřichovice, you’ll go to bed in the evening, wake up in the morning and even have lunch in the hotel restaurant, all right in the heart of Bohemian Switzerland. In summer, you can see the Jetřichovice viewpoints from the swimming pool, and you can set off on foot straight from your table at the Hotel Bellevue restaurant.

Not far from here, in Vysoká Lípa, the Hotel Kortus restaurant is situated right next to the start of the trail leading to one of the most popular natural attractions in Bohemian Switzerland – the Šaunštejn rock castle. In summer, you can sit on the terrace, where the lights come on in the evening; all around you are just a few houses, green hills and mixed forests, which are ablaze with colour in autumn. You can park in the public car park right next to the hotel, and if you’re travelling with a baby in a pushchair – which is a must – you can set off from here not only for Šaunštejn but also for a stroll along the Česká silnice Nature Trail.
After a day spent climbing ladders and ascending to the viewing points via steps carved directly into the rock, you’ll appreciate not only the excellent cuisine at Hotel Kortus, but also the fact that you can spend the night here in comfort.

In Vysoká Lípa, you’ll find another establishment well worth a visit, not only for the good food but also for the views. The restaurant at the Vysoká Lípa Resort offers modern cuisine, and its glass-fronted interior and sunny terrace provide a beautiful panoramic view of the surrounding countryside. Whilst dining, you can admire the famous Mariina vyhlídka, one of the iconic viewpoints of the Jetřichovice Rocks. Carefully selected ingredients, modern cuisine and the impressive natural backdrop combine to create a pleasant place to stop off during a trip through Bohemian Switzerland. The resort also features accommodation and a superb wellness area, where you can treat yourself to some well-deserved relaxation after your trip.

If you’re planning to explore the north-eastern part of Bohemian Switzerland, we’d recommend heading to Křinické náměstí in Krásná Lípa for a delightful culinary and visual experience – you can easily spend a whole day, or even a weekend, there, pottering about the pubs and cafés whilst admiring the beautiful buildings, people and goings-on.

Ideally – whilst you’re still full of tourist enthusiasm – start with a visit to the interactive exhibition and information centre at the House of Bohemian Switzerland. Kick off your day here with a superb cup of Bohemian Coffee House coffee (roasted at the family-run café of the same name in nearby Rumburk, where, incidentally, you’ll also be given recommendations for some unmissable viewpoints – particularly those offering a rosy future and the region’s innovative potential :) and, with the help of the information centre staff, get to grips with the possibilities that Bohemian Switzerland has to offer. If, after that lovely coffee, you fancy something sweet – the pancakes made by the Dužár family, owners of the aforementioned café, are renowned – then you’ll have to pop over to Rumburk.

From the House of Bohemian Switzerland, you can head off in two different directions for a culinary experience – the Lípa Restaurant, which forms part of the Lípa Resort, is situated right next door, whilst the Falkenštejn Brewery awaits you across the street. Both establishments offer excellent lunch options, and you can also stay overnight there. And if you fancy giving your pancreas, gallbladder and liver a proper treat, you can do so, for example, at the U Frinda Café – yes, we’re still on the very same Křinice Square, but this time in the oldest building in its south-western part. Kavárna U Frinda will satisfy your appetite with a generously varied selection of pastries; in summer, you can sit outside in the Baroque arcade, whilst in winter you can warm up in the cosy interior of this unique Baroque half-timbered building, which is listed on the Central Register of Immovable Cultural Monuments of the Czech Republic.

If you’re looking to take in the countryside views with a stomach full of fine food, be sure not to miss the Na Stodolci Restaurant in Chřibská, where they use almost exclusively local organic produce. You’ll find yourself right in the middle of the pastures here; you’ll be able to stroke the lambs and kids yourself, and even go for a ride on horseback in the surrounding pastures before or after lunch… There’s no better view than from the saddle. Perhaps the only exception is the affiliated summer Café Tyjátr, where, over a coffee and some delicious homemade scones, you can watch not only the grazing animals but also, on occasion, observe interesting regional or out-of-town culture.

As far as soaking up culture and savouring select dishes – that is, visually and intellectually stimulating gastronomic experiences – is concerned, it is only right to recommend at least one more establishment in Děčín. The Coffee & Books café embarked on the concept of a regional cultural café with remarkable determination, which, thankfully, has endured for several years since it opened, so even as a tourist, in addition to good food and drink, you’ll often come across an interesting lecture, an evening of music or poetry, or an informative workshop.

We’ve included links to individual businesses here mainly so that you can find them and check, before your trip, that they’re actually open at the time you’re planning to visit.

Anyone who doesn’t have time to check the opening hours and doesn’t want to be restricted by either time or place should head straight to the Luční Bar in Kamenná Horka, where there’s a 360° view 24 hours a day, 7 days a week and 365 days a year.