A beautiful, peaceful landscape marked by the scars of war (Route around Studenec)
Take bus No. 402 in Česká Kamenice, which will take you to the Líska – Křížový Buk stop. This is where the hike begins, winding through a secluded, peaceful landscape with views of the surrounding hills. Along the way, you’ll recharge your batteries, relax, and—with a little luck—be joined by squirrels and chamois.
In Křížový Buk stands a former manor gamekeeper’s lodge where the owner sells army pants, and when there are no government restrictions in place, there’s also a snack bar open for those who forgot to pack a snack. But that’s not all.
One of the rooms also houses a very realistic 1:1 scale model of the interior of a military bunker. Not sure what that is? Just follow the red hiking trail from Křížový buk toward Líska, and you’ll come across several of them. These are World War II-era fortifications that were built to protect the borders. Children will be especially thrilled, as this is where they have the chance to explore the concrete bunkers.
Follow the red hiking trail for 40 minutes from Křížový buk to reach our next destination—Zlatý vrch. Given the children’s enthusiasm and the endless games and make-believe battles they’ll come up with at the bunkers, we recommend setting aside a little extra time.
The basalt massif, which has been given the almost fairy-tale-like name of Zlatý vrch, isn’t very well known, but that makes it all the more surprising. You’ll reach it by walking through a landscape that takes you through forests and meadows, opening up to views of the Lužické Mountains. Then, 30-meter-high basalt columns will appear between the earth and the sky—and that is Zlatý vrch. The area around the rock is worth photographing from all sides and angles, and in the meantime, children can dive into the stone field beneath the rock and build sculptures and towers. Inspiration and imagination have endless possibilities here.
Do you enjoy discovering forgotten places? Follow the nature trail around Studenec and you’ll come to another former basalt quarry that even fewer people know about—Stříbrný vrch. If you’re lucky, you might spot local herds of chamois climbing the incredibly steep rock faces all the way to the summits.
In the area around Zlatý vrch and the neighboring Studenec—which we’ll reach later by following the red trail—the Seven Years’ War (1756–63) left its mark. During the Prussian army’s retreat from the Austrians, bloody battles took place in the local meadows, which are now commemorated by several war memorials and crosses along the roads. You certainly won’t miss them on your journey.
The iron observation tower on Studenec is the last stop on our trip. Be prepared for a somewhat challenging climb to the top of the hill and up the tower, but the views are well worth it!
The return journey takes you through Líska, a picturesque and romantic village where the region’s traditional architecture comes to life once again. For those familiar with the history of Česká Kamenice, House No. 7 may be of particular interest, as it is where Franz Preidl—Česká Kamenice’s most famous mayor, patron, and businessman—was born.
There are wooden bus stops along the main road toward Chřibská or Česká Kamenice, from which a bus will take you in your direction.
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